Tim Healey’s week of yoga in remote Romania ticked all the boxes for a full mental reset.
It had been an exciting, but none-the-less demanding year. Following a crazy month of international marketing events and working at Glastonbury Festival, a yoga retreat had never seemed more appealing.
A short Ryanair hop to 35 Celsius Bucharest, and we took the 1970s-built 3-hour train across agricultural plains progressing through forested foothills to the UNESCO city of Brasov, in Transylvania. Our pre-arranged taxi ferried us the remaining 45 minutes, and upon arrival, we were unplugged from our hectic home lives.
Nestled in the ridge-top village of Peștera, a mere 15 minutes drive from Bran Castle, lies Akasha Retreat, run by the delightful daughter/mother partnership of Irina and Daniela.
The award-winning 11 room lodge offers all-inclusive retreat packages including twice daily yoga. The en suite rooms are smart and comfortable, the food menu is locally-sourced and varied. There are delicious “Indian Themed” buffet feasts on alternate evenings, always accompanied with charming service from lodge manager Russell and his team.
Once we stepped out of our taxi, the scenery in all directions was immediately arresting – my only reference point for such sublime verdant views was “Austria” (later verified as 100% accurate by Austrian guests). Rolling forested green hills led the eye up to towering majestic Carpathian mountain peaks. Note to self: south-eastern Transylvania is stunning – must return.
Akasha’s yoga sessions take place on their own Transylvanian terrace.
Through Akasha, there are opportunities for hikes in the breathtakingly beautiful local area, trips to the ‘Dracula associated’ Bran Castle, massages and weekly sound bath and breathwork sessions (which we duly signed-up for and all proved worthwhile). There’s also a sauna and hot tub with views. But for both of us, a notable highlight of our stay was immersing in yoga with all-star resident yoga instructor, and Irina’s husband, Anshuman Jeswal (Anu).
Now I am certainly no expert, (file me as the occasional yoga student with entry level skills) but I have tried a few different instructors in my time while attending different classes. I could list the issues I have had with some teachers… but let me say this: none have been like Anu, who dispenses his own sublime, positive authentic approach to yoga.
Anu is life-long yoga devotee and it was Irina who encouraged him to begin teaching – a suggestion to which he was initially resistant. When Irina argued that he was ‘being selfish’ by not teaching others and not sharing his abilities to engage others in yoga, Anu surrendered and began to instruct.
He honed his approach to the discipline over years of personal study and training in ashrams across India. In his practice, Anu balances philosophy, spirituality and the need for well maintained personal mobility with yogic asanas guiding students with his mellifluous baritone voice, earnest smile-inducing observations and gentle encouragement.
As Anu explains at the start of every class: yoga is not just a series of stretches. There are 8 limbs to yoga, of which the Asanas (the physical postures or poses) are just one. The 8 include your moral code, sense withdrawal and ultimately conclude with enlightenment. With application and dedication: ‘yoga is life.’
Each day at Akasha, we attended outdoor yoga classes at 08:00 and also at 18:00 with around 6 other yoga enthusiasts on the elegant wooden sun-deck that juts out into the valley, in full-view of the towering horizon cordillera and leafy valley below.
The yoga class level was set at beginner to intermediate – so all are welcome: there was neither any judgment nor need for any self-consciousness. 3 hours of yoga (in 2 classes) were time-tabled every 24 hours. Often these ran for longer and almost 4 hours of yoga a day slipped by without me considering the time even once.
A short intention-setting guided meditation and supporting chant gave the context for each session before we ran through a series of Hatha yoga stretches and exercises, always accompanied with detailed explanation as to the benefits and – where needed – personalised posture correction.
All concerns and stresses were softly ushered out of one’s mind, allowing cerebral space for the individual to focus on being present ‘on the yoga mat’. Gone were thoughts on matters economic, global crises, a certain a US president, and more immediate business or personal concerns. Instead, like a ‘mental spring clean’ the sessions delivered just what was needed: a Zen-like calmness and surge of positivity.
Lessons concluded with a second short guided meditation where we were reminded to consider how fortunate we are to be able to attend the practice, unlike many currently facing extreme challenges – war, famine, poverty – and to celebrate our session by considering instead: love, kindness and peace and sharing these sentiments with one another.
Guided hikes through the ‘Alpine’ meadows full of mountain flowers and butterflies and then through shady forests proved re-energising.
As Anu explained when I caught him post-lesson: “Yoga is medicine. Yoga helped me find my compass. That compass is within all of us. My approach is close your eyes, tap into your breath. Your biggest teacher is the cosmos.”
In our smart phone focused, screen-orientated, fast-moving and increasingly unpredictable existence, a break like this – with yoga lessons based on genuine spiritual foundations – resets the brain.
Akasha offers a supremely affordable ‘get-away’ and quality yoga break, surrounded by a world-renowned national park and the mountains within. If your goal is to unwind and re-boot your own frazzled operating system, then attending Akasha should be a non-negotiable. Take us back there. And soon.
Tim and Fiona stayed for 6 nights at Akasha for £1279. Double room with ensuite and vegan toiletries, meals, yoga lessons, hikes, sauna, jacuzzi and sound baths were included. Prices may vary due to availability and season. https://www.akasharetreat.com
